Last Updated on June 11, 2025 by Team Ideas24
Are you trying to come up with a unique gift idea for the dad or husband? Here’s an idea we think every man will appreciate. In fact we think the whole family will want to have one for themselves! :)
This DIY beer mug was made the bushcraft way. No power tools, just a hatchet and a knife — a good hatchet and a good knife! No screws or wood glue to hold the pieces together, just ropes and propolis (a natural, safe adhesive)!
Contents
Crafting a Bushcraft Mug
Are you in for the challenge of hiding your power tools for a while? Here are the only things you’ll need…
Materials:
- 2 Logs (diameter about the size of your hand)
- Polyester Rope
- Sandpaper
- Propolis
Tools:
- Pencil Marker
- Hatchet
- Knife
Steps:
First you’ll have to gather some wood.
Choose straith-grained species – I got a piece of elderberry (not because elderberry is THE mug species, just because I got a piece left). Any straith- or spiral grained species will do the job, no worries.
You’ll need a log with a diameter about the size of your hand so don’t sight too small.
Use a hatchet to cut it down (or cheat like me, use a saw – first penalty point).
Aim is to hollow it out.
Draw the cutting-lines on the top of the log (to get equal parts) & split it in 8 with a hatchet – see why you need that straight-grained wood?
Once you’ve got those 8 parts you’ll cut off their tips, leaving just 15 to 20mm (half inch) from the side.
While hatching the log your cut respects the grain of the wood & you’ll obtain a perfect contact between every piece.
Let it all dry in a well ventilated area.
Your mug needs a handle. Not just any handle, a strong handle – you want to raise all that beer, no? Look for some natural wooden elbows or fork-style branches.
Peel it & let it dry.
Once those parts are dry, reassemble the log.
Aim is to have a border that’s ‘relatively’ uniform & therefore you’ll cut away the excess. A good hatchet and knife is all you’ll need.
Cut another piece of a big log, or cheat again. Split it & try to obtain the biggest plank you can get out of it. Cut it about a half inch thick & let it dry.
Your mug needs grooves: two on the outside, one on the inside. The outsiders will serve as tighting zone when you’ll reassemble the log while the insider will hold the bottom in place.
Reassemble the log & mark the future grooves. Start grooving.
What’s the best way to make solid no-glue-no-spike wood connections?
Let’s swallowtail!
The inside groove’s got to be a lot deeper than the outsiders.
I started the insiders the way I did the outsiders, but after half an hour labouring I began to feel a desperate need for a simple saw. ‘Only for two little minutes!’ that bad bad little voice said to me. Since I promised myself not to use that tool for anything else but cutting the log I decided to ‘cheat without cheating’.
So I turned my knife – temporarly – into a saw by smashing it to another knife to obtain a rougher cutting edge.
No need to say that it worked perfectly. No rules in bushcraft.
Reassemble the protomug. Put it on a piece of paper & copy the bottom – and make that pencil longer!
Look careful inside the mug to check the differences between the bottom and the shape of the ‘grooved area’ you need.
Correct your design on the paper, copy it on the plank & start shaping.
The good old axe will do the rough job, that good ol’ knife the rest.
What follows is a series of tries & adjustments to get that bottom in good shape.
Once everything’s in place: time to dismantle & give it a final drying session.
Once completely dry you can reassemble it for the last time. You’ll discover soon that in this step your mug will come to life. No matter how hard I tried, it just kept falling apart. So that bad bad little voice came again saying ‘FORGET ABOUT THAT MUG, LET’S BUUUUUUUURN IT!!!
Again, I didn’t listen, managed finally to get it all in place and to secure it with polyester rope. Sliding knots.
Once the mug tightened as hell you can round the upper edge to get a smoother zone ‘where the lips will meet the liquid’. Again, be careful with that knife.
(Sorry, I really couldn’t resist to that tiny piece of sanding paper to smooth the overall surface a tiny little bit. Another penalty point.)
You surely want that mug being watertight, right? You won’t spill any beer, no? No matter how well you did that carving, leaks there will be. So our mug needs to be sealed. Resin is good, but, reminding this is bushcraft! So?
Let’s bio-resin! Mother nature gifted this world with a magic sticky stuff, PROPOLIS! Produced by bees, this all natural product is the perfect sealant. Its hard at room temperature, melts, veeeeeeery sticky, eatable, antibacterial & disinfectant.
Get some – those insects use it to get the wind out of the beehive – or buy it (I got a handful from a neighbour beekeeper). Heat it in a cooking pot and pour/stick it in the junctions of the mug. It will harden rapidly. A little sanding (yet another penalty) and the job is done. You can use bee wax also: less sticky but somewhat weaker than propolis.
You’ve got walnut oil? Use it! Multiple layers.
Note 1: heating propolis in the kitchen is somehow kinda risky business. It smells extremely hard (I liked it, indeed) and depending on the tolerance of your partner you’ll spend the night in the car, with your propolis. Or not. My wife wasn’t home during the crime, but she discovered it anyway (after a few days the smell was still there – that’s why I made her those hair pins – KIDDING!).
Note 2: a few people mentioned that soaking the mug a few minutes in water before use will make the mug water tight without the use of propolis. The wood will swell and seal every junction. All you need are clean cuts & contact zones and a rockhard rope-fixation (that’s maybe the reason the vikings used metal loops at the time).
Avoiding propolis will allow you to drink hot beverages in it – an activity I can’t because the propolis will melt.
Note 3: instead of using rope you can use rawhide. Let it soak a while in water until it’s nicely flexible, wrap it around the mug & let it dry. While drying the rawhide will shrink and tighten the whole. Best source of rawhide are dog chews. Some people are really inventive, I must say.
After many hours of hard basic labour my first bushcraft mug was finally ready (it’s still sticky a bit). What do you think?
If you ask me, it’s time for a beer!
Here’s another version! Hope you like it!
Thanks to
Bushcraft mug materials choosing the right wood and sealant
Picking the right species and finish determines how many campfires your bushcraft mug can survive. Understanding wood properties and safe sealants prevents leaks and unpleasant flavors.
Selecting seasoned hardwood
Seasoned hardwood gives your bushcraft mug strength and stability because moisture has already left the cells. Birch maple and alder resist cracking yet carve smoothly with basic tools. Tap the blank and listen for a clear ring because that sound means tightened fibers.
Softwoods might look tempting but they dent fast and leak. Avoid timber that still feels cool and heavy since trapped water will expand by the fire. Dry wood also accepts finishes better letting wax or resin penetrate deeply instead of beading off.
Sourcing deadfall versus fresh-cut logs
Camp scavenging often yields fallen limbs that look perfect. Deadfall has begun drying saving you weeks of seasoning time. Inspect for rot pockets and insect holes that weaken thin walls.
Fresh-cut green wood carves like butter so many carvers rough out the shape then store the mug in a shaded airy spot to dry slowly. Split the blank right away to relieve tension and prevent heart cracks. Wrap the rim with bark or cloth during drying to reduce uneven moisture loss.
Checking grain orientation for durability
Inconsistent grain causes weak points that split when hot liquid fills the mug. Choose a blank with straight parallel fibers running top to bottom so stress travels along the length not across.
Avoid knots near the rim because they act as wedges during carving and later leak around growth rings. Tilt the mug slightly during hollowing to follow the grain curve rather than cutting against it. Clean sweeping cuts leave burnished surfaces that resist moisture. Good grain alignment means fewer repairs in camp.
Comparing natural sealants beeswax resin oil
Bushcraft tradition favors easily gathered sealants that stay food safe. Melted beeswax soaks into warm wood and forms a flexible plug against hairline cracks yet it softens in tropical heat.
Pine or spruce resin hardens like glass adding a pleasant forest aroma but it chips when dropped on rock. Flaxseed oil penetrates deepest and cures hard through polymerization that builds a glossy barrier.
Repeated coats improve shine and water resistance. Test compatibility on scrap because mixing wax over uncured oil may cause peeling. Reapply finishes after smoky fire cleaning.
Avoiding toxic or allergenic woods
Some attractive species hide dangers that spoil drinks or hurt health. Oleander yew laburnum and eucalyptus contain powerful toxins that leach into hot liquids and can irritate skin while carving.
Even common walnut triggers reactions in people with nut allergies so carving it for shared mugs risks an unpleasant surprise. Research local tree properties before cutting and test shavings in boiling water for off smells. Stick to proven food-safe hardwoods such as birch or maple when you’re unsure.
Bushcraft Mug Gallery
Click on any image to start lightbox display. Use your Esc key to close the lightbox.
Essential hand tools and safety tips for carving a bushcraft mug
Sharp tools and steady technique turn a rough billet into a camp-ready bushcraft mug. Solid safety habits stop slips that could cut carving short today.
Axe and hatchet care
Your axe roughs out the blank so keep its bit shaving sharp. Hone with a file then finish on a fine stone until it bites without forcing. A dull edge glances and scars wood or ankles. Apply a light coating of oil to stop rust between trips. Check the handle for cracks after every few swings and replace loose wedges immediately. Safe storage means slipping a leather sheath over the edge before it goes back in your pack.
Carving knife selection and maintenance
A compact straight-back knife lets you control depth while shaping the outside. Choose carbon steel because it’s simple to sharpen on river stones and keeps a keen edge longer than stainless during extended trips.
A comfortable handle prevents blisters and reduces fatigue. Try handles that let you pinch the blade spine for detail cuts. After each session wipe sap off the steel strop lightly and oil the pivot if it’s a folding model. Consistent maintenance means predictable cuts and safer hands.
Safe grip and body positioning
Most carving injuries happen when the blade meets flesh instead of wood. Sit with elbows rested on your knees to stabilize cuts and keep work at chest height so you see every stroke. Point the cutting edge away from your other hand and your torso.
Use controlled push or pull cuts never swinging motions. Brace the mug against a knee or a stump to prevent slips. Short deliberate passes remove more material than reckless hacking and they preserve energy.
Using gouges and spoon knives
Hollowing the interior starts with wide gouges that scoop bulk quickly. Work in thin layers following the grain curve to avoid tear-out. Switch to a spoon knife for final refinement slicing across fibers to leave a smooth burnished surface that needs little sanding.
Keep the inside wall at least five millimeters thick near the base for strength. Rotate the mug as you cut instead of twisting your wrist reducing strain and giving consistent wall thickness throughout the cup.
Field sharpening methods and first aid readiness
Blades dull fast on knotty timber so carry a pocket diamond plate and stropping leather. A few light passes restore bite and keep cuts clean. Strop often rather than filing away metal each time.
Keep a compact first aid kit within reach stocked with sterile strips pressure gauze and antiseptic wipes. Train yourself to stop work the moment a distraction or numb fingers appear because fatigue breeds mistakes. Rapid response to minor nicks prevents infection and keeps you carving confidently.
Conclusion
A well-made bushcraft mug turns a simple brew into a ritual. Materials tools and technique all shape how long that bushcraft mug serves you. Regular care keeps the bushcraft mug watertight and safe to use. Every mark and scratch records nights under the stars with friends. Keep carving and your next bushcraft mug will be even better.
We have practical mugs for you or your friends. Check out our handmade mug project!
